Day Two: Roncesvalles to Larrasoaña, 27 km

The farther away from the Pyrenees, the closer we got to the heart of Navarra, the remnant of a medival kingdom. The landscape flattened, we passed through a few picturesque villages with names and street names written in  the Basque language, such as Burguete (Auritz) at the beginning and Espinal (Aurizberri) later on. One of them was also Zubiri, which was planned as final stop of the day in our guidebook. Since we wanted to have a lot of time to visit Pamplona the following day, we continued untill we reached Larrasoaña. In Zubiri the most interesting monument is the bridge: Puente de la Rabia. The remains of a medieval catholic Saint named  Quiteria were burried under its arches, before they were discovered and moved to Burlada. There is a legend, that animals brought to that bridge were cured of rabies (esp. la rabia).  What is more, it is said the relics were originally to be moved to the cathedral of Pamplona, yet mule which carried them stopped suddenly in the middle of Burlada and refused to go on.  It was read as a wish of the Saint to remain there, and the relics can still be found in the church of Juan Baptista de Burlada.

We walked mostly through forests, the way avoids the road as often as possible. It was the day, when we discovered huge and delicious Spanish chocolates Valor, which then strengthened us virtually every morning as a form of an early, energy breakfast:).  Larrasoaña is surrounded by orchards, it can be reached by a narrow path among prickly bushes. The albergue in Larrasoaña is very simple and rather poorly equiped, one of the least recommendable on the whole way to Compostela, but still it was more than enough for a pilgrim. It required registering and paying in some kind of a townhall on the other side of the road.


  • distance covered so far: 54 km
  • duration: 6.30 am – 2.00 pm
  • cost of albergue: 6 euros
  • food (shopping): 11.50 euros

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